I think that Einreich is trying to show that working in lower class settings sucks fucking ass! I know how she feels. I was a server at Sonic Drive-In for about 8 months and life was hell!
Those of you who don't know what Sonic is, well it is basically a fast food restaurant, but its styled after a 50's drive in. The servers rollerblade and deliver your food to your car. We get payed $5 per hour and we can get tipped. Doesn't sound too bad does it? Well too make decent tips you would have to work about 8 hour shifts and rollerblading almost non stop gets tiring after awhile. Especially with wet floors, rude costumers, and the heat from the summer sun.
I think Barbara is also trying to say that people don't realize the shit that goes on behind the counter at some of these sit down restaurants. I know that this shit happens all the time. The drugs, the long hours, the rush to pee, smoke, or eat. IT all fucking sucks, but that is what America has come to today because certain people can't fucking relax and wait a minute.
I thought the piece was a bit long but it had its moments of laughter. I personally connected to the piece because I went through some of what she did. I think a lot of people would connect with Barbara if they worked in the "low class jobs". I think that low class jobs are a good start for people to get on their feet or to get back on their feet after a hard fall. It also helps you learn how to work with different types of people and prepares you for challenges in life. I would never recommend staying at a job like that for life, but if you move up the ladder of employment status I can see how it can be a benefit in some cases.
At the end of the day I respect people who work these jobs because I used to be in their place once too.
I think that is what Barbara is ultimately trying to say.